Saturday, May 18, 2013

Day 62, N 37° 58.609’ W75° 51.577’ Crisfield, MD



We completed our errands on Solomons Island early, and were underway for Crisfield, MD at 09:30, very pleased with our efficiency.  We were even able to sail for almost an hour before the wind gradually diminished and we had to motor with our main sail up for an assist.  We were making good time when we kept hearing a Navy boat on the radio as it identified passing boats and told them to go around the area because they were about to do an exercise with “live fire”.   We had also heard this the day before but that day we knew we were outside of the charted restricted zone.  We were rather surprised when the Navy boat came our way and gave us the same message, pointing out a “target ship” in the distance.  This was NOT in a charted restricted zone so the Navy boats were kept quite busy directing boating traffic to keep a distance of 3 miles from the target ship.  We had to alter our course, but it did not significantly affect our expected arrival time. We kept watching the “target ship” for some action, but nothing happened. Eventually the Navy announced a cancellation of the exercise, just as we had heard them do the day before.  We never know what we will encounter out in the Bay!

Now we are back in Crisfield, MD where 3 weeks ago we spent an awful night re-setting the anchor three times when very gusty winds caused our anchor to drag.  We chose to anchor again the day of our arrival because the forecast was not for such strong winds.  We made sure the anchor was well set, but then the winds did strengthen some after dark, making us both uneasy and Peter decided to stand an anchor watch while Lyn got some sleep, then Lyn would have a turn. Fortunately for Lyn, the anchor was holding well and as the winds became a little lighter again Peter decided to get some sleep too.  In the morning, we were happy to see all was well and we had not dragged the anchor. Then we moved Kite to a slip in the marina for the day since storms were predicted and we didn’t want to worry about it while we took a small cruise boat to visit Tangier Island – a trip we didn’t want to make in our own boat without local knowledge of the shoals around the island.
The approach to Tangier Island

You have to be 16 and get a license to drive the golf carts
Tangier Island lies about 11 miles west of Crisfield, almost in the middle of the Bay. It has been inhabited for the last two hundred years by people who make their living “crabbing, oystering, fishing and clamming.” It’s only 2.5 miles long and 1 mile wide and 4 ft. above sea level.  There are almost no cars on the island and people get around in golf-carts and bicycles on the narrow roads lined with small houses.  Some 500 people live there today, still making their living as “watermen.”  Many of them still have a distinctive accent attributed to their relative isolation in the past, but today they are well connected to the mainland for communication and supplies.  Although it was raining most of the day, we still took a short golf-card tour ride and then walked around on our own.  The houses and “crab shacks” (where they hold crabs near molting stage so they can market “soft-shell” crabs) are all quite picturesque and we enjoyed the day despite the weather.
Crab shacks and working boats
Before returning to the boat, we just had to try the local crab cakes in a small restaurant --- delicious.

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