Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Day 30 – N 36° 50.486’ W 76° 17.934’ Portsmouth, VA



If we could make it to the Gilmerton Bridge before it closed to boat traffic from 3:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., then we could make it to Tidewater Yacht Marina, our intended destination at mile marker zero of the ICW and the doorway to the Chesapeake Bay!  Of course that would mean another “0’dark thirty” departure, but it would also mean seeing another beautiful sunrise. There are eight opening bridges and one lock in the final 20 miles of the ICW as you head north! Three of them are railroad bridges listed as “usually open” and the others are all on a schedule: some every half hour, others every hour.  Our friend, Fred Drummond, on the sailboat “Royal Serf” has made this trip many times and he laid out the timetable for us the day before as we waited an extra day in Coinjock, NC to catch favorable winds from the south.  We were on a mission to maintain at least 6 knots for the 30 miles to the first bridge.

Sunrise over Currituck Sound
As the sun rose, we were starting to cross Currituck Sound, the last of those many wide, but shallow, sounds in the Carolinas where the wind kicks up steep waves.  The wind strengthened, but it was behind us from the south, so the sailboats (there were 3 of us now) all put up head sails and we had a beautiful swift crossing of the sound.  So far, so good. By frequently trimming our sails to maintain our speed through the narrow, winding rivers, we arrived at North Landing, the first of the opening bridges, one hour ahead of schedule giving us some margin for the possibility of RR bridges being closed.  Fred’s timetable continued working perfectly.  We made it to the lock for the noon opening, a full hour ahead of our “last chance” time.

Three boats under sail in Currituck Sound
The Great Bridge Bridge (that’s not a typo) is synchronized with the Great Bridge Lock. It was well coordinated. Northbound boats go through the bridge on the hour and motor right into the open lock.  There was more than enough room for the three boats and the dock hands helped us all tie up.  In 20 minutes the gates on the other end opened and we motored out where southbound boats were waiting for their turn to enter the lock. We made it to the Gilmerton Bridge and caught the next-to-last opening before the 3-hour restricted period.  Any one of the railroad bridges could have thwarted our success, but none did.  We waited for only one train, but it was after the Gilmerton Bridge, so we had the time. Whew! On the return trip we plan to take an alternative to that section of the ICW. The Great Dismal Swamp, despite its name, is said to be scenic and teeming with wildlife and we will take the time to enjoy it.  We stayed on the “fast” route this time to take advantage of the forecast for south winds and we were eager to get to the Chesapeake now that it was so close. A sign in the lock told us we had come 732 miles from Jacksonville, FL. By Peter’s log, we have actually traveled 789.6 miles since departing our marina in Jacksonville.
In the canal lock, holding lines as the water drains out.

The Norfolk/Portsmouth area is a jolting change from the remoteness of the outer banks.  Towering naval and commercial ships line the river and noisy activity abounds.  We said goodbye to Royal Serf on the radio. Fred continued on toward his home in Virginia Beach – although we may cross paths in the bay this summer.  We motored into the Tidewater Yacht Marina and were greeted by a dockhand who had a package of our forwarded mail with him. We were tied up by 3:00 pm. The next day will be a day on shore exploring Norfolk. 

We have arrived at the Chesapeake Bay!  In celebration, we opened a nice bottle of French wine for dinner and toasted our success.

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